What this does is create a multicam sequence that exactly matches the settings of first clip, then places all the other clips, centered in the frame, at their native frame size. Next, choose Clip > Create Multicam Source Sequence. Here’s the second KEY TIP: Go to the Project panel and select the clip with the largest frame size FIRST! Then select the rest of your clips. (The differences in frame rate won’t matter for this example, because I’m not actually editing for this tutorial.) Here are my three clips: two are 1080 and one is 4096 x 2304. (Preferences can be changed at any time, and are retained between projects.) So, for multicam editing, set this to None. However, this totally screws up a multicam edit. Go to Preferences > Media and change Default Media Scaling to None.įor normal editing, I recommend setting this to Set to Frame Size.
It often makes sense to transcode them into the same codec and frame rate – though not necessarily the same frame size – if your editing gets too sluggish.) (I should stress, though, that it is really helpful to have all clips use the same codec and frame rate. The challenge is when you are building and editing multicam clips with different frame sizes.
I’ve used it a lot and enjoy the process. (Think of switching a live show.) If all your clips have the same frame size, frame rate and codec, multicam editing works great. Let me explain.Ī multicam edit is where you are playing and editing multiple clips at the same time. What went wrong? The answer is a preference setting. However last week, when I went back to test this, it didn’t. When I recorded the video, everything worked great.
I did a video that showed how to work with different frame sizes in a multicam clip here. How can she create a multicam clip with video of different frame sizes, yet edit them into a 1080 timeline? She is editing a three-camera multicam sequence where two cameras are 1920 x 1080 and the third is 3840 x 2160. I’ve pulled the earlier article and have updated the process here. What I learned from Adobe after the article was published is that the problems were caused by an incorrectly set preference. Or you can go back to the layered transition stack that I showed you upfront and really take precise control by using the pen tool and acceleration to create your own truly custom effect.BIG NOTE: Last week, I wrote about problems editing multicam clips in Premiere. You can refine that basic effect by applying a Gaussian blur or a fast blur to each of the clips, just keyframing it so it syncs up with the transition. Just be sure to customize where it zooms in.
You'll note that this allows you to really keyframe everything, and so by keyframing position and scale, as well as the ability to right-click on those keyframes and add ease, you can really get a truly refined smash-zoom. In this case, I applied a heavier blur and was able to take advantage of additional controls. For another variation on this, you could explore the prebuilt one up top here, and you'll notice the same thing was done with the layered transition stack. Now you'll notice in the middle of the effect it smashes and it has a blur to hide the pixelation as it punches in. So it gets more blurry in the middle of the transition. I've got it applied, and I'll go forward, and right about here, before it does the smash switch, I'm going to crank that up. What we're going to do is turn on the blur value. If we take a look at this here, pay close attention to where the effects are applied. And let's just grab a Gaussian blur and apply that to both clips. Let's disable this top track here, and on the effect what I'll do is apply a blur. What I'm going to do here is tweak it a little bit. Now if you want speed, this cross-zoom effect, by tweaking the center point, works pretty well, but if you want to refine it, I suggest you apply a little bit of blurring. I like this, and it works well, but I wish it was a little softer. And when I apply that cross-zoom, you'll see it pops in one area and pulls out another. In this case, I'm going to say zoom into this bird's head and then pull back out right here. You'll note that you can adjust the duration, but to get better controls, set where it zooms. If you select that effect, you really have very little control. One of the things I dislike about this effect, while it's fast and works well, it tends to get pretty pixelated, because there's no blurring or defocusing. I just want to show you how bad the built-in one is. Let's just drop this shot down for a second. For example, it would look something like this. For reference, you can make your own cross-zoom effect, but it often becomes pixelated. Now, I like to have a cross-zoom effect where things pop and then the other shot's revealed. In this case, we'll go back to the layered transition stack, and I'll start with a better cross-zoom.